At Zambezi Dusk the boat safari comes to you. Two guided trips a day leave from the lodge, and both are included in the rate: no transfer to a jetty in town, no booking, no extra charge. On the upper Zambezi, above Victoria Falls, that means a wide, slow river with islands, reed beds and channels, and a good chance of hippos, crocodiles, elephants and a long list of birds.
Why go by boat
Most safaris happen in a vehicle. On the river you sit low, close to the water, with the engine off as often as on, and animals treat the boat differently from a truck. Hippos surface a few metres away. A fish eagle comes down for a catch. A herd of elephants wades across a channel to reach an island's grazing.
It is also a quiet way to see wildlife. There is no dust, no bumping along a track, and in the late afternoon the light on the water is soft and warm.
What a trip looks like
The two daily trips are usually timed for the cooler parts of the day: early morning and late afternoon into sunset. The lodge sets the exact times and length by season, and your guide reads the river and decides where to go based on what has been seen recently.
Expect to see:
- Hippos, in pods in the shallows and channels. You will hear them long before you see them.
- Nile crocodiles basking on sandbanks, often bigger than people expect.
- Elephants, especially in the dry months, crossing between the bank and the islands.
- Birds: African fish eagles, kingfishers, herons, storks and, in the right season, African skimmers on the sandbanks.
- With luck, buffalo, antelope and monkeys along the bank.
Best time of year
| Months | River | What it means for the boat |
|---|---|---|
| December to April | Rising, then high | Green, lush, good for birds; fewer visitors; hot with afternoon storms |
| May to July | High but falling | Cool mornings, around 10°C at dawn in June and July; bring a fleece |
| August to November | Low | Best game near the water, as inland pools dry up; very hot by October |
The river is at its fullest around March to May, when the Falls are at their loudest, and at its lowest late in the year.
The sunset trip
If you only do one trip a day, make it the evening one. The sun drops behind the islands, the water turns copper, and the hippos start to move. Bring a warm layer even in the hot months: it cools fast on the water after dark.
What to bring
- A warm layer for early mornings and after sunset.
- A hat and sunscreen; the glare off the water is strong.
- Binoculars, one pair per person if you can.
- A camera with a zoom lens. A phone is fine for the light, less so for birds.
- Insect repellent for the evening trip. Livingstone is in a malaria area.
More on clothing and kit in our packing list.
Safety on the water
Hippos and crocodiles are dangerous, and good guides treat them with respect. The skippers keep their distance, approach slowly and give hippos space to move. Wear the life jacket you are given, keep hands inside the boat and stay seated when asked. Children are welcome on the boat; tell the lodge their ages so the right life jackets are ready.
Making the most of it
With two trips a day and several nights, you can treat the river like a long nature film. By the third or fourth trip you start to spot things before the guide points them out. Pair the boat with a morning at Victoria Falls or a tiger fishing session, and see what fully inclusive means for what else your rate covers.